Honestly, certain examples of these are big enough to look like an edible native Australian wind instrument. Some of them taste good enough to transport the lucky consumer to Dreamland, others taste like the inside of a Melbourne tramdriver’s glove. Now you don’t really see these in non-authentic eateries. God I hate all this “authentic” stuff but I don’t know how best else to describe it…..are we all savvy with what I’m getting at? And if you do see one in a non-authentic eatery you’d be well advised to give it the good old body swerve, although if you’re eating in plastic crapholes you probably deserve all you get.
What is he banging on about? No idea, need a cuppa.
DOSAI
Dosai is plural of Dosa, and that’s what you’ll see on the menu: masala dosa, egg dosa, special dosa etc etc. A dosa is a thin rice flour pancake, the other descriptor being what it’s wrapped around and what accompanies it. Originating in the Indian state of Mysore (yes I know, Mysore bottom etc, that’s why they renamed it Karnataka in the 70s) it is now an ubiquitous South Indian food icon. The Sri Lankans have a version they call a Hopper (as opposed to a string hopper, don’t ask) and the first one of these I ever had was during an altered state evening at the Moon festival in Amblangoda. This one was stuffed with bananas, green chilli, egg and curd, just sensational. Sensational to the extent of my considering setting up a nanahopper stall in Covent Garden. But then I came round and………….
Back to the dosai. Major quality criteria:
1) lack of greasiness: a goodun will be totally lacking in oil.
2) pliability: no point wrapping the dosa around the filling if it’s going to fall apart as soon as you look at it
3) chunk size: large chunks in the filling are a bit of a no-no. Large chunks and friability are hopeless.
4) accompaniments: usually a sambar – spicy soup, and a coconut relish. Both should be luvverly
5) extras: if you’ve paid a premium for, say, a Bangalore Special Dosa you should be able to discern a difference. Many places charge extra for apparently nowt, or like $2 for a spoonful of diced onions so make sure you ask first. This practice can be called adding value or gouging depending on whether you work in marketing or technical support!
The three shown in the picture cover the Auckland cheapeats cost spectrum. You can pay more at those other places but why would you?
From the left: Xotic Masala Dosa $7 Saravannas Egg Dosa $10 Ras Vatika Special Dosa $12
Xotic only sells masala dosa and these vary wildly with the chef. I’ve had almost inedible, greasy, crumbly examples and the next time a light, pliable truly toothsome one. At $7 you take your chance. The accompanying sambar is always good, the relish can be bland.
Saravannas do lhe largest range I’ve yet seen, from plain dosai through chicken to truffled lobster thermidor dosa, and I must say every one I’ve had so far has been good, the egg dosa showing real class. Their chutneys and relishes are exemplary.
Ras Vatika (Dominion Rd, Balmoral near the Laundrette): top of the range in price, subtley spiced, nice accompaniments but the more expensive ones aren’t worth the extra. And they can be VERY SLOOOOOW.
I’ve put my specs in the pics to give you an idea of size. Xotic is the only relatively small one, the others are huge.
Now Plato, Aristotle, Russell, Murdoch and the like have long pondered the intricasies of our society, covering such worrisome topics as greed, war, truth and moustaches. But they have, to a man, avoided one of the really thorny issues: is a masala/egg/special etc dosa an adequate, satisfying meal? I suppose this is just an extrapolation of Newman and Baddiels’ professors sketch – “see that diced carrot in that pool of vomit, that’s your mum that is” See, I had a mental image the other day of Graham Greene commenting on lunch at Mercury Plaza….”A lingual delight it may have been on the surface but in the underlying strata were ripples of decay, untruth and perversion” etc.
However, it is a valid question. Those of you who have dosa’d should know what I mean. One minute you’re faced with this huge thing, 5 minutes later it’s all gone and yet……… My view is that they’re just about ok for lunch (oddly enough the smaller ones tend to be thicker so just as filling as the big ones; refer to Young’s modulus), but for dindins a supplement is required and that’s probably why Vishnu invented samosas, idlis and the like. It’s just that I always feel guilty ordering extra food when one has a two foot long thingy on the table. Change subject pronto.
And the upshot of all this is what? I have little or no idea save to hope fervently that you, my dearest reader, will be galvanised into action and head toward your local Dosas ‘R Us outlet to introduce yourself (or re-acquaint yourself) to the delights of this wondrous invention.
For the record, I’d score the above as follows:
Ras Vatika: Quality 8/10 Quantity 7/10 VforM 8/10
Saravannas: Quality 8/10 Quantity 7.5/10 VforM 8.5/10
Xotic: Quality 6.5/10 Quantity 7/10 VforM 7.5/10
Incidentally there’s a place on Peachgrove Rd in Hamilton called, inspirationally, South Indian Restaurant which knocks up a cracking example of the species. There you go, that’s good eats in Waikato covered!